The Cycling Adventurer
Bicycle Touring	Packing Lists — Introduction

Bike Kit
A Bicycle!	This might seem obvious, but if you're fortunate to have two or more bikes from which to choose for a ride, which one will it be? My Fuji Touring is the only bike I have right now. Previously, I would choose it for any ride over 100km, but I have done the occasional populaire-style ride with my Merida 900 Extreme. The Merida was a bare roadbike and didn't have things such as rack and bar-bag fittings and mudguards/fenders, but it did have lousy gearing for steep hills. If the ride was to be offroad, my old mountain bike/tour guiding bike with rear rack was the best option. It is worth mentioning that good quality wheels built with Wheelsmith or DT spokes are a must for any kind of loaded touring. My Fuji currently has lighter wheels, Velocity Aeroheads, than it should have because its activity has been mainly in randonnees. I think 36-hole hubs and rims are best for the sort of riding I do. The wheels are sufficiently tough for heavy loads and riders. I think 40 and 48-spoke wheels for tandems adapted to touring are excessive except for trekking in severe off-road conditions. As to frames, the Fuji has served me well, but its front-end geometry means it tends to wander disconcertingly unless I am pay attention. If I was to consider an alternative, I would probably go to the United Kingdom and get two steel frames by Thorn — a light touring model for randonnees, and a trekking model with 26-inch mountain bike wheels. The French-style touring bike also interests me, and my old riding partner, Tim Stredwick, builds his Cyclotouriste model to a similar geometry under his Velosmith brandname. The possibilities, of course, are endless, and custom framemakers abound throughout the world, particularly in North America, and each is willing to impose on you... err, sorry, advise you on... their ideas about touring frames.
Backpack	The backpack is for use on shorter rides or commutes when I am riding a rackless bike and need to take extra clothing in cool to cold weather. It also gets packed for multi-week day or week tours because it is handy for trips to a laudromat, carrying groceries back to camp, picnics, hiking and sightseeing trips.
Bike computer	I like Cateye computers, and have an Enduro 2 model on the Fuji. It doesn't have buttons across the top, which helps to reduce the amount of water that enters the unit and corrodes the electronics. However, I give the contacts on both the computer and handelbar mount a light scraping every couple of months to remove oxidation and improve electrical conductivity between the two; apart from a dead or dying battery, corroded contacts are the main reason why computers fail to operate properly.
Drybags	Drybags are good investments for cycle-touring. I use the Sea-to-Summit brand that have a lighter, more supple fabric than other brands, and they are quite cheap. I am paranoid about getting my down sleeping bags wet, along with my clothing. My drybags are different colors and sizes, so I can keep track of what is in which. They also allow me to compress the contents without them "reinflating" before I pack them in the panniers. I have used drybags alone to carry gear on top of the rack for several randonnees, and they have extremely well except for the inconvenience of searching for items through the top opening.
Dynohub — SON +  Front Lights	The hub is permanently on my touring bike courtesy of the front wheel. Previously, I used Cateye HL500II battery lights on my Apollo MTB tourer, and a Busch and Muller S6 sidewall dynamo when I bought the Fuji. The SON is currently connected in series to two E6 lights — one is a primary light, the other is a secondary that can be switched on and off as required. The dynohub is excellent because it has low rolling resistance, is ultra-reliable, and is always there without having to worry about battery recharge and run times. I have toured extensively with the hub. It's also been service-free for some 35,000km.
Handlebar bag +  feedbox	I have been through several iterations including one I fashioned from a large toiletries bag. One of the significant issues with all of them was a lack of sufficient stiffness around the handlebar mount to stop the bags from drooping when loaded. I currently use a Topeak Tour Guide version that is reasonably petit to prevent overloading, but I have reinforced it with aluminium strips to keep it reasonably rigid. I carry in it electronic gear, my wallets, some nibbly food, and other sundry items. I mention the "feedbox" which is mounted behind the stem and provides ready access to bars and other small food items. The original product was the Bento Bag, but I haven't been able to find a bike shop that stocks them, and instead have fashioned my own from a neoprene bag I picked up at Wal-Chem in the US. It has an open top rather than a netting closure like the Bento Bag, but is still useful for storing bars, jelly beans and dried fruit.
Headlight — LED	Irrespective of the bike I am riding, this goes along. Again, randonneuring has taught me the importance of redundancy.
Helmet	With a peak to help keep the sun and rain at bay.
Panniers	I use a pair of panniers if sleeping gear and clothing are needed. I have two pairs — the larger pair always go on the rear rack, but the smaller pair can be used on the front, or on the back when I am travelling with a moderately small load (when I am staying overnight indoors, for example) or commuting with a laptop and books and a change of clothing. I use the four panniers when I am on extended tours and need cooking equipment and additional space for food and clothing.
Rack bag	I have two Topeak rack bags of the same design with side pockets, a flat top, but not the drop-down panniers. Each slides on to a track made of an alloy extrusion along the top of specially designed Topeak racks, and lock into place. Because of the age difference between the two bags, the slide-on fittings are not compatible. The bags are excellent for my needs. I use them for events which are supported, for day rides, and for commuting.
Racks	There is a Topeak expedition rack made of aluminium tubing on the back of the Fuji, and if I need four panniers, I fit a Blackburn aluminium low-rider rack on the front. The Blackburn has been good, although I take care with how I mount it to ensure there is no unwarranted tension on it by forcing it into place. The front rack I used on my Perth-Adelaide bike had a platform for a non-handlebar bag, as well as panniers; it was reminiscent of the French style of front rack and big on top.
Saddle	I am a confirmed Brooks saddle fan. I simply wouldn't consider anything else if I can afford a Brooks. I have had two on the Fuji. I started with a Brooks Pro, then fitted a B17. I learned that the Pro is suited to riding when the handlebars are below the level of the seat; the B17 is for when the handlebars are level with or above the seat. I ride with the handlebars level, and the B17 suits me much better. The Pro was a beautiful brown leather saddle, and I was sad to sell it when I left Hobart in 2006. The break-in time for a Brooks depends very much on the leather in the individual saddle, how often you ride, and the conditions in which you ride. Caution is needed in applying any dressings. And you may be one of the few whose sitbones and butt cannot cope with a Brooks, or you don't have the patience for the break-in to end; for you I cannot make any recommendations, and you may well be condemned to a life of discomfort on a bike.
Spokes	For a long time after taking delivery of the Fuji, I had extraordinary problems with broken spokes on the rear Alex wheel. Those problems have ceased since I fitted Velocity Aerohead wheels (I now have more problems keeping the rear off-set rim from suffering spoke pull-through). If you consider that broken spokes are a given at some stage while touring, spare ones of appropriate length taped to a seatstay are cheap insurance. I bought a fibre spoke kit in 2003 in Melbourne on the way to PBP. I have never used it, and I rely instead on a spoke key to retrue a wheel around a broken spoke until I fix it.
Tail-lights	I have two Cateye 5-LED lights mounted on the Fuji's rear rack that are very effective. I have one switched on, and the second as a reserve unit, as per randonneuring requirements. I start rides with fully charged AAA batteries which are rechargeables, but I have had good run-times from lithium or similar exotic batteries. I do have a philosophical problem in using alkalines or batteries that aren't rechargeable, then dumping them after comparatively short periods.
Tyre pump	Mine is a Zefal HPX-2 modified slightly with thick spacers around the barrel so it slots into an old plastic bracket attached on the downtube bidon braze-ons; this keeps the pump out of the way but readily accessible, and leaves the down and top tubes free to pick up the bike more easily. The pump bracket should have a Velcro strap to wrap around the pump and ensure it doesn't pop off on a rough road. The HPX is a narrow-bore pump which is very good for achieving high pressures. It is not so good for lower-pressure, wide-profile MTB touring tyres such as the Continental Town and Country; a wider-bore pump will be more efficient because of the additional volume of air it produces on each push of the handle. While it is not for taking with you on the bike... a floor pump at home is excellent for inflating tyres after inserting new tubes, or to top off the tyres before departing.
Water bottles	My Fuji Touring has three cages. The minimum number of bottles I take is two, each preferrably of one-litre capacity. If I acquire a metal bike frame with only one cage, I drill as a matter of course two holes on the seat tube (after taking account of the position of the bottom of the seat post), implant two Rivnuts, and screw on another cage.
Clothing Kit
Bandana     or     Skull cap	Bandanas are very useful, and I take two or three of them. Primarily, I use them to protect my scalp from sunburn, but I have used them as kerchiefs around the neck for additional sun protection or warmth, to wipe my nose, to dry my hands, to filter water and to dry dishes. New bandanas usually are stiff, so they need to be washed five or six times to start giving them some suppleness and softness to make them easier to tie back. The thinner cotton ones are better than the heavyweight ones. Skull caps with ties on the back are good, but I am reticent to pay more than about $6 for them while I have plenty of bandanas.
Beanie hat (thin)	A cheap synthetic job, but it makes all the difference to balding people like me. It is essential that it can be pulled down over the ears, and not be so thick as to make my normal helmet difficult or uncomfortable to wear. It can be worn for sleeping and to keep the head warm.
Booties	If I had any doubt about the effectiveness of booties in cold and wet conditions, it disappeared on the Murray and Bacc 1000 randonnee in 2006... when I didn't have them. I have been using BBB WaterFlex booties, but I have obviously been getting sizes too small for my MTB shoes (even though the size selection is correct according to the tags), and the base of the shell keeps splitting away from the elastic webbing. It should be noted that it is almost impossible to keep feet entirely dry in rain unless you wear waterproof boots. Plastic bags placed between the skin and socks, or the socks and shoes, and/or on the outside of the shoes are a stop-gap measure if I haven't got booties. I used the second and third options on the Murray and Bacc. Even so, after my feet were drenched in a wild storm, the shoes took a long, long time to dry out in sub-zero temperatures, and the bags were only marginally effective.
Gloves:     Short-fingered     Long-fingered     Polarfleece     Waterproof	Yes, yes, I know, I am a gloves freak and to carry all that may seem like overkill on hand protection. But after getting caught in near-to-blizzard conditions on two occasions, I've learned not to trust the weather bureaux, and that hand and head protection is essential. I would have included mitts on the list; I had a pair but didn't wear them for several years until a very cold ride into Bacchus Marsh in Victoria in 2005; then I lost one after stopping in the town. I want to buy a lined pair for winter if I am permitted to stay in Canada.
Headband —     Polarfleece	This was made for me by Linda Cook, a member of the Salamanca Cycle Touring Club. It is excellent in temperatures below 2 or 3 deg C.
Jacket     Polarfleece	I rely on this a little less now I have my MEC rainproof jacket, but it's still nice to have along for times off the bike when camping, and when I don't want to appear too much like a cyclist. Bulk is the main issue, and if I do take one, it usually is stowed under a bungee cord across the tent on my rear rack.
Jacket — Rain	There is no doubt that my puchase in 2005 of an MEC rain jacket is up there with my SON dynohub and Fuji Touring bike as my best investment in cycle-touring. This jacket has big pit zips, and is waterproof yet breathable. Depending on base layers, I have been very comfortable from minus 4 or 5 deg C to plus 15 at a fast clip on randonnees. I resisted getting a good jacket for many years because of the expense. I was pennywise and pound foolish.
Jacket — Wind	My first was by Netti in Australia, and lay in the wardrobe for ages unused. Then it became one of my all-time favourite bits of riding kit because it helped solve some significant overheating issues. It is used a bit less now because of the MEC rainproof jacket. I also have a new one from MEC as a back-up jacket that is larger fit and more suited to bulky under-layers of clothing.
Jerseys     Long Sleeve     Short Sleeve     Sleeveless	On randonnees over 300km, I wear one jersey and carry another, and likely have a thermal top as well. I have a preference for long-sleeve garments in all but the very hottest conditions, simply to help prevent sunburn. As to cool to cold weather, say between 0 and 10 deg C, I wear a polypropylene long-sleeve thermal alone under my MEC rain jacket. This combination has served me well in the past 15 months, and helped to solve significant overheating and sweat issues in the preceding three years. When the temperature drops below 0 deg C, I start putting on additional layers which may be another polypro top, and/or a polyester jersey, and/or a polarfleece jacket.
Leg warmers	I recycle my old tights that have worn out in the crotch. I cut the legs off and using them as leg warmers. The tights are cheap women's pairs bought at places such as Target in Australia, or Walmart in North America. They are made from cotton and Elastin; normally cotton is not good on bikes, but I have found this combination to be warm and comfortable in somewhat atrocious conditions. No hemming is required after cutting the legs off, and the grippers on my bike shorts do a fine job of holding the leg warmers in place.
Pants — Casual	I usually pack one pair of travel pants that have zip-off legs to convert them to shorts. They are good for added warmth in camp, and for going to the pub for a meal or drinks, or trudging or hiking around a city, or hiking the bush as a non-cyclist. I prefer them made of microfibre or similar artificial fabric because they are lighter, pack down smaller, and dry faster than natural fabrics. They also are very good for wind protection on the bike if the cuffs are tucked out of the way of the chainrings.
Pants — Rain     or     Plastic Bags	Rainpants have long been an issue for me because of claminess. I have relied on cheap, light plastic ones up to now because the permeable membrane (Gore-Tex) ones are too expensive and heavy for my needs. My current pair were bought cheap as "splashproof" sports pants, and I have removed the lining so they are just a shell. They are well oversized. I had contemplated Netti's cycling-specific rain pants in Australia, but when I went to buy them, I could not find them anywhere. If windproofing is an issue, I have found microfibre or Taslon materials to be excellent. In addition, my experiences on some rainy and cold randonnees have led me to use plastic shopping bags placed between my skin and my tights, and they have worked remarkably well. They scrunch down to a very small package for stowing in a handlebar bag, and are useful for waterproofing other things such as handelbar and rack bags, too.
Relfective Gear	These are required to be worn on randonnees at night or when visibility becomes poor. I carry them in the front pocket of my handlebar bag or the top pocket of my rack bag. They are reasonably compact and light, and are a good investment for touring as well.
Shirts — Casual	I pack one or two MEC lightweight T-shirts for off-the-bike wear and to merge into the general populace. They also can be useful for added warmth in the sleeping bag on cold nights. Another option is a windcheater (long-sleeved sweat shirt).
Shorts — Bike	One pair is on me obviously, but the number of additional ones depends on length of ride. For multi-day or week tours, it may be that one pair is on me, one pair is ready for the laundry, and the third pair is clean and ready to wear. Three days between laundry duty is good, although I can tolerate going to six days (wearing each pair of shorts for two consecutive days). Brand is as personal as any other item that needs to fit comfortably. I like Pearl Izumi shorts for their obvious quality and have five pairs. Other people might not like the feel of the padding and might choose something else.
Shorts — Casual	I pack two pairs of dark blue, cheap ($8) Taslon overshorts to wear on the bike while touring. They help protect expensive bike shorts from wear and tear, and for the shy and timid, are presentable when going into supermarkets, motels and other public places. The pockets also are handy for storing anything.
Socks	In winter, wool reigns, although polypropylene inners can be used to supplement woollen socks and to help draw sweat away from the skin. In summer, I will wear either wool or cotton. If the temperatures are up around the imperial century, I prefer cotton. The advantage of natural fibres, and wool in particular, is that they are less prone to retain sweat odours than artifical fibres. I normally take three pairs of socks on multi-day tours, but like gloves, I may indulge in extra pairs if the weather looks uncertain.
Shoes	Shoes are a personal preference in style and fit. I have never worn road-racing shoes and cleats. My first two pairs of cycling shoes were a pair of Adidas ATP tennis shoes, because I used platform pedals, clips and straps. I graduated to clipless pedals and mountain-bike shoes when I bought my Merida 900 Extreme road bike. The beauty of conservatively soled MTB shoes is that they can present as casual dress shoes. Because the cleats are recessed into the sole, walking and light hiking in them is much easier than with roadracing shoes and cleats. They have a stiff plastic platform that makes them a more efficient interface with the pedals. I have had significant hotfoot issues over the past five years, and have tried various shoes from Shimano, then Specialized because of the company's so-called Foot Geometry metatarsal button, and then Shimano again. I had a long discussion with a fellow Australian rider at PBP 2003, Duncan McDonald, about hotfoot, and on his suggestion, I fashioned a metatarsal button with electrical tape in both my shoes just before the ride. The makeshift buttons worked. The Specialized insole also worked to an extent. Then my ride partner Tim Stredwick passed on an idea — cut for each shoe a piece of reasonably thick plastic to the size of a credit card (or use an old card!), and place in the shoe above the cleat. I did this on my most recent Shimano MTB shoes, then inserted my old Specialized footbed, and my hotfoot problems appear to be solved. Two other options may be considered for on-bike footwear. Many touring cyclists prefer sandals, made by companies such as Shimano and Lake. I haven't tried them, although I have been tempted. The other option is to wear hiking boots or shoes and use clips and straps, or the Power Grip strap system which is ideally suited to larger sizes. The boot option may be the only one when temperatures get well below zero or there is constant, heavy rain. Shimano make boots lined with Gore-Tex that are available in Europe, but not North America; they are expensive but could be a worthwhile investment for long-term cold-weather and snow use. However, carrying two pairs of shoes or boots on tour is bulky and inconvenient.
Showercaps	One for the helmet, one for the Brooks saddle (tucked up between the rails at the front of the saddle when not in use).
Spectacles	I carry single-focus prescription sunglasses in the wraparound style, and my normal tri-focal glasses. I can ride only a short distance in my ordinary glasses before my eyes starting to water excessively because of wind irritation. I recommend wearing glasses while riding irrespective of whether you need corrective lenses; the chances of getting hit in the eye by an insect in summer are good, and riding in rain and dust is made a bit easier. My most significant problem is riding slowly uphill in sub-zero temperatures when the glasses start to fog. A wipe of spit across each lense, then a wipe with a tissue can help reduce the fogging. My future wrap-around glasses will be bi-focal — I cannot read my computer's trip-meter or most route instructions at night with my current single-focus pair that are optimised for long distance. Such are the penalties of age. I carry the glasses in a soft fabric pouch in the handlebar bag when not in use.
Thermals	For me, polypropylene has provided the answer to several major problems related to overheating, underheating and profuse sweating (a conundrum, I know, but they were all interrelated). I find the polypro fabric does wick water away from the skin, but it does need an outer layer, whether that is a breathable waterproof jacket, or a polyester jersey. Polyester, from which most jersey fabrics are made, is next to useless in my opinion for sweat transfer away from the skin. The exception seems to the Polarfleece, but it still retains moisture in the fabric itself. The other material that I have felt comfortable wearing is merino wool. Netti in Australia used to make a jersey of a very thin merino fabric (so thin, in fact, that I put my thubs through it trying to put it on over damp skin on several occasions). Wool has the distinct advantage of being able to be worn for days on end without body odour ingraining into the fibres. Silk is a product that I haven't tried. Both silk and wool (either alone or blended with synthetic fibres) are represented in various products retailed by outdoor equipment merchants. They are somewhat too expensive for my taste, and if I was in the market for merino products, I would shop at the second hand charity shops. Charlene recently picked up some beautiful merino tops that could be used as undergarments (and even for off-the-bike casual wear) at a Value Village for less than $10 each. As to washing artifical fabrics, I have tried the suggestion to use borax (available in North America under the 20 Mule Team brand name) and it works to remove ingrained body odour. The smell comes from the bacteria that is difficult to eradicate in normal washing, but borax apparently does the job of killing it off, as well as softening the water to help removal of dirt and grime.
Tights	See Leg Warmers
Electronics Kit
Camera	The revolution in photography to digital technology has been great for my enthusiasm. I was once a photo-journalist, but my interest almost completely disappeared for a long time, much having to do with the expense of film and developing. I've had an electronic camera for several years, but I wasn't as enthusiastic in taking and sorting photographs as I should have been. That's changed somewhat while I have been in North America and have been developing this website. Don't forget to pack any cabling to connect your camera to USB ports.
Mobile Phone	As I rode more as a single (unattached) person, mobile phone contact became less and less important. Who would I call if I got into strife, anyway? Mobile phone coverage was iffy in many places in Tasmania. And I didn't miss or need one in Europe in 2003 and in North America in 2005. Things have changed since I am now in a lovely relationship, but we both doubt the need for a mobile phone when we ride together. Phone cards are, I find, a simple and cheap pay-as-you-go solution, particularly for international calls. In Australia, I sourced cards from Super Buzz (a Telstra outfit) for $20 that provided 24 hours of talk time to North America from public or private landline phones. Super Buzz was about the only cost-effective service offered by Telstra, but even that seems to be eroding as its prices increase.
MP3 Player +  Ear Buds	This is for on and off-bike entertainment with favourite music recordings. The prices are declining while the storage capacity increases for these. Mine is only of 512Mb capacity, but the larger ones will give you plenty of listening for a long randonnee or boring stretches between stop points on a tour. I carry mine either on a lanyard around my neck (some of the earbuds double as the lanyard) or in the rear pocket of my jersey.
Radio +  Ear Buds	The original radio I used was one I bought in Esperance on my Perth-Adelaide ride in 1997. I mounted it on the handlebars or in the bar-bag and used the earbuds, but the speaker was OK for riding and listening, too. I now use a tiny radio with ear buds that fits in my jersey pocket. On my Northern European tour, I tuned into a Dutch radio station, Rocket, that played classic hits non-stop; at times, it was my link to sanity.
PocketMail     Device	The PocketMail device has been very useful to maintain email contact with Charlene and potential employers, as well as family and friends. It uses quite old technology — a phone coupler to transmit and receive data — but it is still very reliable and quite fast, and literally of pocket size. There are limitations to the device, not the least being the unreliability of the PocketMail server to receive into my account emails from certain addresses, and the fact that attachments cannot be downloaded. It has a very compact keyboard, and a reasonably amount of storage. The email account and attachments can be accessed on the parent server from a normal computer at, say a library or internet cafe. The real advantage, though, is that the service is accessible with the device from any public telephone or landline phone in North America, Australia, New Zealand, and many parts of Europe... freecall. Go to here for more information.
Kitchen Kit
Bowl	I use a bowl or simply eat straight from the pot. I dispensed with carrying a plate because it is just too cumbersome to pack.
Pocketknife +  scissors +  whetstone	A Swiss Army knife, of course, but a simple version without needless gadgets. I have attached a pair of folding, stainless steel scissors that have proven to be equally as useful. I also include a whetstone to keep the knives sharp.
Utensils — Cooking	The utensils are: A mini-whisk; a mini plastic flip; a wooden spoon I whittled down from a large one on a rainy day in Brugge, Belgium; a toaster made by a Tasmanian for Trangias and some other stoves; a cutting board made from the top of a large round plastic kitchen cannister; and a cigarette lighter to get the stove going.
Utensils — Eating	On multi-week tours, the spoon, knife and fork are all stainless steel — I have used Lexen in the past, but it does break and will distort or melt if used to stir cooking food. I also like to have more options that just a spoon.
Spoon (plastic)	A plastic one goes on day rides and randonnees for eating canned fruit and creamed rice from the supermarket.
Stove +  utensils	I have three versions: An off-the-shelf Trangia kit that has the Duosal pots and is my multi-day or week preference; A custom job that has uses a Trangia burner and pot mounted on a triagular base that breaks down into three flat pieces, plus a windshield made of aluminium roof flashing; and An MSR Pocket-Rocket isopropane gas burner that is very light but frankly underperforms for my needs. I am never confident about its stability when holding a pot of boiling water. And I dislike the idea of having to dispose of cannister when they are spent.
Miscellaneous
Batteries +  charger	Try to standardise your battery needs as much as possible. I have three different sizes on the bike — AAs, AAAs, and CRs (for my computer and its bar-mounted light), so my strategy hasn't worked that well. Cheap and light chargers are now available that automatically cut off when the batteries are topped off. Keep an eye on your unit if you plug it in at a caravan park — I saw someone make off with one and four AA batteries on the premise that its owner wasn't around to claim it.
Bike Lock	I use a moderately thin cable with a key lock. The key is kept on the zipper tag of my wallet. The cable lock is quite light, but it helps to immobilise the bike and if I so desire, locks the panniers to the frame as well. I also have bands cut from inner tubes on my handlebars that loop over the levers to act as brakes on the front and rear wheels to deter movement; the strategy also stabilises the bike when it is leaned against a wall or other fixture.
Bungee cords     (thin)	My originals were home-made to my desired length from marine-grade thin black cord and small stainless steel hooks. I used them primarily for keeping my tent in place on the rear rack, which they did admirably. I could slip my jackets securely underneath. I misplaced them before leaving for North America in 2005. I tried cinch straps, but they don't work for me. They never remain tight enough over things like my tent, and I actually lost my tent and a water bladder from the bike while riding between Robinvale and Mildura on New South Wales in 2005 without realising. That never happened with my bungee cords. Fortunately, I recovered the tent as it was being picked up by a shady pair of guys in a truck. I have since replaced the straps and my lost bungees with Coughlans bungee cord loops that have balls on the ends. I read about them on a Bikeforums post and while the cord is too thick for my prefence, they have shown their usefulness. I intend to make up custom ones using thinner cord and the same principles.
Compass	I used a Silva one in Europe and it was handy on more than several occasions. Rides in Tasmania are pretty simple affairs for me because I know many of the roads, and landmarks are easy to pick, but things changed in country Victoria and definitely in North America, on the Prairies in particular. I also suffer from north-south disorientation when changing between hemispheres — it took me months to work out north from south, and therefore east and west on my current stay in Canada.
Helmet and/or     Head Torch	I have a Black Diamond twin-LED light I bought in Belgium after my original, heavier one gave up the ghost, but it has a push-button switch that is quite hard to operate, so it serves better duty as a tent light, suspended from the roof. I currently have on my helmet an Energiser three-LED light that was cheap and has worked very well. For off the bike, I have another similar but later model Energiser head light that I normally wear over a cap to reduce irritation from the light pad on my forehead.
HR Monitor	I used to have one, and it was handy at times, but only for training rides and randonnees. I may still get another for more accurate judging of lactate threshhold heart rate while on randonnees. On tours, it is not necessary, but can be a handy distraction on long, boring sections.
Pen/pencil +  notebook	On randonnees, the pen is handy for control officials, especially if they happen to be shop staff. A pencil is more durable than a pen. Otherwise, these are all used for keeping a diary or notes.
Positive Outlook	Sometimes, it can be difficult, but keeping a positive outlook does help take the edge off miserable weather, relentless hills or mechanical mishaps.
Wallets	I carry everyday stuff such as cash and credit/debit cards in a small wallet. On international trips, I carry my passport, travel documents, and spare card and cash in a larger one that is kept separate from my other wallet for security purposes.
Water bladder	If there is more than 100km between towns and the tempertures are moderate to high, or I need to free-camp, a bladder is handy. It also helps with water storage at the tent in formal campsites. Never underestimate the amount of water to be used in camp for cooking and drinking. Mine is a recycled two-litre wine cask bladder in a tough, clear plastic, washed out with vinegar, then baking soda to remove the smell and taste of the wine. Upmarket bladders are available in various sizes from outdoor shops.
Ziploc bags	These keep just about everything dry, including documentation such as maps, brevet cards, passports, electronic equipment. They also are handy for segregating pairs of things, such as gloves and booties, or families of items such as reflective gear. They are no substitute for my Sea to Summit bags that are almost puncture-proof and scuff resistant and store my clothing and sleeping bags, unlike Ziploc bags.
Sleeping kit
Self-Inflating     Mattress +  Seat Adapter	Again, I have three from which to choose and it depends on my desired comfort level. The lightest is a Thermarest Pro-Lite Short, a half-length version at 370g, and that is what I have used for my two North American trips in 2005 and 2006. The other two are standard-thickness self-inflating pads from other companies, one in three-quarter length, the other in full-length. The seat is a Kathmandu version (Australian), and was very useful in downtimes on my working tour of Australian orchards. It is less needed in North America where there seems to be a picnic table at every formal campsite, but it will be going with me to PBP 2007 if we decide to camp. If sore hips become an issue while camping, a hip-hole may help. This is easy on sandy soil, but less so on grass and impossible on concrete. On grass, see if you can find a natural depression on your tent site and make use of that. I use a drybag packed with clothing and covered with a jersey, thermal or polarfleece jacket as a pillow. I have tried a compactable pillow made by Kathmandu that can be bulked or firmed up with clothing stuffed in an integrated pocket, but volume becomes an issue when packing it. I have also tried inflatable pillows without much satisfaction. If you suffer from a sore back, consider packing a stuff sack with more clothing and putting it under your knees. It's surprising how effective this can be, if you can sleep on your back for an extended period.
Sleeping Bag +  Silk Liner	Much depends on the expected temperatures and location of my ride. I have four bags from which to choose, two of them down (a large one for cold and a small one for warm), the other two synthetic (a thick one for cool to warm, and a thin one for hot). I am afraid ratings on bags mean little to me. For summer touring I have opted for the light down bag plus the thin synthetic bag that compacts to a small package, plus a silk liner. This gives me a much greater temperature range, from close to 0 deg C right up to 30-plus. The package is still smaller than my synthetic bag. For sub-zero temperatures, I use the heavy down bag and have the small synethic bag and silk liners as back-up. Below minus 10 deg C, I think that the synthetic and heavy down bag would be OK so long as I dress with several layers as well. But the volume that is needed to pack all this in panniers starts to become problematic... and I am not sure I'd want to spend too many nights out in temperatures that low, anyway. A silk liner adds a degree or two to the rating of a bag, and can be used by itself in really hot weather. Silk liners are expensive, but very light compared with cotton ones.
Tent +  Groundsheet	I have had up to three tents from which to choose. The smallest was a step up from a bivvy sack, but it failed to be a bivvy or a tent. I hated it for how difficult it was to erect, its limited interior space, the difficulty of getting through the small opening, and suspect resistance to wet weather. I sold it before leaving Hobart. I sent my non-freestanding "intermediate" tent to Charlene in 2004 for her Golden Triangle Tour. It's not a bad tent for a single person, side-entry model, but it does depend on stakes or nearby fixtures to stay upright. She said it created a lot of interest among other Golden Triangle riders because of its wide side-entry. My favoured option for just about every trip is a Mountain Designs Hutt that I have had for five years. I have spent around 300 nights in it (possibly more), and the floor has started to show wear holes. It is just right for one person, but a tight squeeze for two. It has vestibules front and back, but no rear exit through the fly. It is a side entry tent, and that also suits me well. It has two poles, and the inner is self-supporting, although the fly needs staking to be totally effective. It takes less than five minutes to erect (including clearing the site of rubbish and laying the groundsheet). It has been remarkably waterproof, although is at the stage of the fly needing the seam seals checked, the outside reproofed, and the floor patched. I am considering a quality Gore-Tex bivvy for randonnees in remote areas. I currently have an "envelope" developed for EMT use that has an aluminium coating on one side of the recycled-paper fabric; its failing is that it doesn't breathe, and becomes quite damp on the inside. A three-person tent is on the horizon to accommodate us both... if I can get Charlene to carry even just the fly! I use a groundsheet to extend the life of my tent floor. I have used several different sorts, and currently use a Coughlans aluminium-backed emergency sheet. The principle is that in cold weather, the silver side goes upward to reflect back bodyheat; in warm weather, it faces down to reflect away heat. I don't know if it actually works, but the sheet is still handy for many other uses, including its original purpose, along with protecting other gear from rain, picnics on squelchy ground, and as shade from the sun.
Toiletries Kit
Ear Plugs	You don't know how noisy wind in trees, babbling rivers, passing trains, highway traffic, snoring partners, tent neighbours or dorm occupants, and chatty campground neighbours can be until you've had a sleepless night because of them.
First Aid Kit	This varies from a tiny kit for randonnees kept in a Ziploc bag in my handlebar bag, to a more comprehensive kit kept in a drybag and stowed in a pannier pocket. It may include sterile alcohol wipes, adhesive dressings, absorbent wound pads, adhesive dressing tape, nitrile gloves, eye drops, emergency foil blanket, and first aid instructions.
Flip-Flops	I use these to get my feet out of cycling shoes around camp, for trotting off for nightly ablutions, and for wearing in public showers to avoid attracting unwanted bacterial or fungal infections. I use a brand from WalMart that have the wrap-strap at the front rather than the toe-strap thongs. They are very light, and can be worn comfortably with socks
Tissues	I take a small purse-pack in a Ziploc bag for public/bush toilet activity, to wipe off cooking utensils, to blow my nose, and other things. I usually keep the pack in my handlebar bag.
Ibuprofen	I take these only when needed and now never more than the daily allowance. My personal experience shows that if you have to take them for pain resulting from riding the bicycle, rather than an accidental injury, there are fit issues at play. My personal experience on randonnees is that increasing the dosage to candy-consumption status does no extra good whatsoever. Recent studies apprently show ibuprofen can be very harmful if there is a predisposition to heart complaints. I have to be cautious because of my heart attack history, but I do find them useful to relieve chafe and pressure soreness around the butt.
Razor +  Deodorant	Randonneuring and touring are not excuses for looking scruffy or smelling bad! I did grow a beard in Europe 2003, but was never happy with it (too much SILVER and I think I look younger and better without it). Sample sizes in deodorants that are available in North America (but not in Australia) make fresh-smelling under-arms much easier, especially used in combination with moist wipes/towelettes if showers aren't available (bacteria causes the body odour, not the sweat itself).
Soap	These days, I decant an antibacterial hand wash into a small travel-pack squeeze bottle for use in the shower, and particularly for washing away nasties from the crotch and under the armpits! A little goes quite a way. I find soap stays slimy in the plastic bag unless it is entirely dry when packed, and I dislike picking up a wet bar of soap to put it in the bag. I find the hotel mini-cakes are too small to get a good lather in the hard water common in North America, and the normal-sized cakes to be cumbersome in packing.
Sunscreen +  Lip Balm	30+ UPF at least for both. I keep a chapstick in the handlebar bag; chapped lips are very uncomfortable for over a week as they peel and recover... I can't keep my tongue away from the little bits of dry skin, and hot beverages or spicy foods send me through the roof! For tours up to a week's duration, I decant sunscreen into a small pill bottle to keep in the handlebar bag; for longer tours, I take a regular tube.
Toiletries bag	A Ziploc bag does just fine. I have used off-the-shelf toiletries bags but the small Ziplocs are as good for my purposes.
Toothbrush +  Toothpaste	It is difficult to find in Australia the sample packs of toothpaste and traveller's toothbrush. Not so in North America!
Towel	The material is a loop pile synthetic, and the towels are marketed by outdoor shops. The smallest one I have is a large dish cloth of the same material bought for one-third the price of a similar sized item from the outdoor shop; it didn't have the label! I have three different sizes from which to choose and much depends on the length of the trip.
Vitamin tablets	I carry these only occasionally on long rides. They are the Executive Stress variety with emphasis on the B complex that evidently is more prone to being leached from the body than the other vitamins during prolonged exercise. As the experts say, however, vitamin tablets are not a substitute for a balanced diet.
Wipes	I buy bulk packets, then store a wad of 10 or so in a Ziploc bag. This keeps the volume down and helps stop the scent permeating everything else. If I am on a long tour, the amount may increase to 20, and I restock along the way. The wipes are wonderful for cleaning off grease after working on the bike, and even for wiping down the frame of the bike. They also are good for shower-less hygiene in remote camping locations; a wipe-over of the crotch and butt areas, plus the armpits, and around the face (each area with separate wipes of course!) does wonders for refreshment and odour.
Tool & Spares Kit
Cable — Shifter	I've had three rear gearshift cables break, including one while I rode from near Los Angeles Airport into the city centre in 2005. Each time I fortunately had a replacement. Brake cables are somewhat more robust and I gave up carrying a spare one ages ago. However, regular checks are worthwhile. Don't cut your shifter cables to length because the ends then fray too easily. You can twist or wrap the excess length of cable out of the way until you find a pair of cutters to remove it.
Cassette Tool	My touring version is an expensive little device made by Stein, that doesn't need a chainwhip or spanner. It is inserted into the lockring, then the wheel is remounted on the bike and turned clockwise. The device engages on the chainstay to undo the lockring. I have done maintenance on hubs and cleaned cogsets while on tour; this becomes quite important in wet and dirty conditions.
Chain Link	I keep a spare SRAM or Connex link in my kit. Ensure the link is for the type of chain you run (9 and 8 and 7 speed chains are different in width). The Connex link needs to be assembled in a particular way to ensure you can use the 11T cog on 9-speed cassettes without jumping.
Chain Lube +  grease +  Loctite	I use an eye-drops bottle. The type of oil depends on the temperatures in which I intend to ride. I am not keen on spending a small fortune for bicycle-specific lubricants that do no better a job than other motor oils. The eye-drops bottle gives precise control in placing a single drop of oil on each roller, and is small and convenient to stow in either my handlebar bag or a drybag (see below). On extended tours, I carry another tiny squeeze bottle of grease which has proven its worth in repacking bearings and lubricating the threads of bolts. (BR>On long tours and randonnees, I carry a small tube of Loctite 242 or 243 just in case something rattles loose such as a light mount or front derailleur pivot bolt (as happened on a ride from Strahan to Hobart in Tasmania).
Electrical tape	Wrap 10 or 15 turns around the seatpost. It is useful for all sorts of things, and can be remarkably strong for some repair or makeshift jobs. If you think ahead, you will have adjusted your seatpost to the most appropriate height for you, then wrapped on the tape just above the seatpost clamp. It then becomes an inbuilt marker for when you have to remove the seatpost to pack your bike for travel.
Gloves	Nitrile or plastic gloves protects hands from greasy chain fixes, brake dust from changing tubes, and any other ghastly chores; they also offer some protection in really cold and wet weather. I prefer the gloves used in food preparation; they are not so tight as "surgical" gloves, although the feel through them for fine jobs with nuts and bolts is less.
Inner Tubes	I carry at least two, and preferrably three for long rides. They should be new, and the ones already in the tyres should be unpatched.
Light Bulbs	I carry four spare globes for my E6 healights in a small Ziploc bag in my handlebar bag. As with all halogen globes, do not touch the glass bulb because the oils transfer from your fingers and burn into the glass to shorten the effective life of the unit. If you do accidentally touch the glass, wash it as soon as possible with alcohol (methylated spirits/ methyl hydrate/ rubbing alcohol) before inserting the bulb in the light.
Multi-Tool	Mine is a faithful Topeak with a chain rivet tool, and tyre-lever storage on the outside. It has allen keys that are suitable for tightening or undoing pedals, and crank bolts.
Patch Kit     and     Tyre Liners	I have ridden through a patch of box-bush thorns in Australia that resulted me in picking out 30 of them on the front and rear tyres. I've also had persistent punctures because of goat-head thorns in North America. Check regularly that the rubber cement is still viable before packing. Cheap cement gives cheap results; I have found Park Tools cement to be excellent. I mention tyre liners because they are effective in preventing thorn and glass punctures. Mr Tuffy and Slime are the two brands that come to mind. The liners are plastic strips that bed around the inside of the tyre casing. I fitted them on my Perth-Adelaide crossing and wore out the rear tyre before I had any punctures. The liners do add weight to the tyre, but if you are intent on trekking off the road where the surface is swept of most pointed object by passing motor vehicles, then they may be a good investment. You do need to ensure the ends butt neatly together, or they can rub a hole in the tube. I used gaffer tape to cover the join.
Spoke key	I use the Park Tools key. Make sure the one you choose fits the spoke nipples on your wheels.
Spanner —     8+10mm Ring	From an old Topeak on-bike mini-toolkit that frankly was one of the better things I bought until I lost various components... I should get another one.
Spanner — Cone	My original touring cone spanner was tailored to fit the rear axle and was fashioned from a Lifu double-ended spanner cut in half. I bought two small spanners from a bike shop in Mildura in 2005 to ensure I had all options covered.
Spanner —    Headset	People who run aheadsets have their adjustment bases covered with allen keys, but traditional threaded headsets are a bit more difficult to adjust or tighten on the road. I took the old cone spanner, and widened the jaws with a bench grinder to fit the nuts on my headset. It works, but only just because of the lack of leverage (and I am working on an idea to increase that).
Spanner —     Shifter	A six-inch version, with the handle trimmed slightly to fit the tool bag. Acquire a good-quality shifter because the jaws will be much tighter and not tend to burr the corners on the nuts or heads of bolts. A better quality shifting spanner (or crescent wrench in North America) also helps prevent injury — it is far less likely to slip off a difficult fastener so knuckles smash into something like a chainring!
Tool bag	A waterproof black Sea to Summit drybag with roll-down top that either can loop over the rails of the seat or go in a rackbag or pannier pocket. Whatever you use, try to get one in which the largest tool you have fits (in terms of length). Having all tools in one place is much handier than having to hunt around panniers or bags for them. One idea is to use a wide-mouth bidon that sits in one of the cages on the frame... but I like my tools too much to leave them so exposed to theft.
Zipties	A small selection of good quality cable ties is handy; cheap ones from dollar stores are weak in the locking mechanism.

Top of Page © 2006 Rowan Burns — The Cycling Adventurer This page last updated on 07-11-06