Cycling Adventurer: How To... Paint a bike frame

The Cycling Adventurer
How To...	Paint a Bike Frame — Step 9

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Decals and masking

Plain paint on a frame looks good to some people. To others, it's... well, plain. For the remaining few, it denotes a bike that has been stolen and any identifying features removed. Finally, a bike with no make or model identification won't do so well in the marketplace, unless the potential buyers are very astute and have the know-how to interpret serial numbers and frame design.

Of course, the Mongoose-to-Cycosys project puts me in that picture. But, there weren't dollars for an antique bike restoration hanging off the project. I just wanted to paint a frame to make a smart, shiny blue bike.

I eventually sold the Cycosys for much less than what I put into it, but that was more for the parts such as wheels, chain, bottom bracket cartridge, and other items than the cost of the painting. The spray-painting experience certainly was worth it.

I went to a local signwriter with some specific ideas on what the Cycosys name should look like — white lettering with a thin black outline inset slightly from the edge. The shop did a two-layer vinyl cut "sign" that I only needed to position, press down, burnish and remove the backing.

It all worked quite well, except I didn't quite get the lettering in the same position on either side of the downtube. You wouldn't have noticed unless you looked down from a seated position.

This vinyl signage is darned durable. It has to be to withstand years of sun, rain, hail, wind and vandals. So I didn't both to overcoat it with clear... I'd had enough of the project by that stage.

The best outcome is for a single layer of vinyl overcoated with a couple of coats of clear. Everything should smooth out, and you'll have a professional looking bike. In fact, from what I have seen lately, some of the manufacturers/distributors have got quite lazy with their graphics applications on some road bikes amounting to just some signage on a large piece of backing wrapped around the down and/or seat tubes.

The Cycosys lettering was supplied by a Hobart sign shop and comprised two layers — the base white layer and a tiny black outline that can't be seen here.

There is another way of doing lettering that is in fact painted on, and while I haven't tried it, I think it would lead to some interesting designs. The designs can be generated on computer at home, then taken on disc to a local signwriting shop.

Have the shop cut your letter requirement using "spray mask" vinyl. The lettering will be delivered "in reverse" stencilling. Let the final colour coats harden, rub down the frame lightly with red (medium) Scotchbrite pads. Clean the frame with a wax and grease remover (something like methylated spirits that won't attack the paintwork).

Apply the lettering stencils. Remember to mask off every other part of the bike, then do several passes of light paint until you build up the depth of colour you desire. Let dry for a few hours or overnight, and then remove vinyl, just like you would masking tape. Thick application of the spray, however, means a skin will form over the edge of the vinyl, and this may lift and make the edges ragged.

Painting on the lettering or pattern is probably best done after your final colour coat, but before you spray with clear. That way, every coat of clear will build up over your painted letters, protect them, and produce a more even finish.

Vinyl signs and decals aren't cheap — the lettering for the four names on Cycosys cost around AUD$35 back in 2004. But the cost is worth it for the professional touch it adds.

Sign shops can accept certain types of computer graphics files, so you can possibly do what you want on the computer using a good art package; ask the shop first what format is best. Or you can get the shop to do the design for you at an additional cost.

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